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Peña de Bernal is located in San Sebastián Bernal,
a small town in the Mexican state of Querétaro.
According to Leonor López Domínguez of México porphyrytic monolith
was formed some 100 million years ago during the Jurassic period, when it must have been at least three times higher than today.
Many people make a pilgrimage to the
highest point hikeable, visiting a little chapel about halfway up. On the
Spring equinox, people gather all dressed in white to form a human belt around the monolith.
Geologists claim that in mass, it is second
to Ayer's rock in Australia, and in height, third behind the Rock of
Gibralter and Rio de Janeiro's Sugar Loaf. From in front of the Iglesia de
San Sebastián in Bernal, the Peña provides the perfect backdrop to the
bright oranges and yellows of the church. In fact, it's hard to find a spot
in Bernal where the Peña doesn't provide a dramatic backdrop for a building,
street, square or other scene. |
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The rock itself is inspiring enough to
beckon climbers and hikers. The walk up to it's halfway point is a
challenging hike that takes an hour and a half. Continuing on to the top
is only for rock climbers. The real experts take a completely different
route and can be seen as spots of color hanging by threads on a sheer
vertical face, making their way to the top piton by piton. The hike to
the halfway point is hot and dry, but every few hundred yards, an
enterprising burro owner has enlisted his animal to supply an ice-filled
cooler of bottled water and soda for sale to the thirsty hikers. Once at
the halfway point, the destination for non-rock-climbers, you can
observe the distinct browns and greens near the base of the rock
blending together as the valleys stretch north toward San Luis Potosi
and south toward Pachuca. A small capilla, or chapel, barely large
enough for one person to enter and kneel nestles in a niche against a
rock wall. Wait in the line that forms and step inside. The tiny alter
is covered in flowers and lighted candles carried up by the devoted.
On March 21, at the Vernal Equinox,
when the earth is vertical on its axis, a different sort of festival
occurs. Thousands of new-age believers gather, dressed all in white
trimmed with red kerchiefs, early in the morning around the base of the
Peña, absorbing the energy emanating from its crystal core. The
residents have a adapted to these outsiders in pragmatic ways, creating
friendly restaurants, making tasty sweets, and developing a crafts
industry to produce high quality wool and hand sewn lace.
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